Have you seen these raggy-edge quilts? My first encounter with one was a few years ago, and I loved them: usually they looked like denim, but sometimes flannel. I always wanted to make one but they seemed so labor-intensive.
The old time-honored method was to sew the blocks together, with the edges exposed, then clip the edges so they fray when washed, as in this Craftsy article. I shudder to think of what my wrists might feel like after all that clipping, even with these special snips made just for that purpose.
Our local sewing shop started featuring a cutting tablet to make quilt blocks, and a rag quilt block template which cuts the snips at the same time the blocks are cut. The tool was called Accuquilt Go! cutter. The way it works: one or more layers of fabric are lined up on a cutting template, a thick mat is fitted on top of the fabric, and then the whole sandwich of template, fabric and mat are rolled through a pressing bar so that the fabric is mashed onto the blades embedded in the template, and cuts the fabric into the desired shape. Not an automated procedure, but a little more streamlined than making each individual cut with scissors or a cutting wheel. Actually, they do make an automated cutter but I haven’t tried that one yet. It’s about double the price of the Go! cutter.
For this lap quilt with a Christmas theme, I used flannel remnants from the remnant bin at JoAnn Fabrics. They often have smaller-than-one-yard pieces left at the end of the bolt, and they package them up in little bundles and sell them for half the normal price. The pattern for this lap quilt, which is on the back of the 8 1/2″ rag square template, calls for 49 double-sided 8 1/2″ square blocks sewn together. It gives you the yardage of each color you need, but I just cut up a bunch of remnants and then picked out 49 x 2 blocks of fabrics that I thought looked good together and arranged them so that no two of the same butted up against each other.
All the blocks are sewn with 1-inch seam allowances, then a 1-inch border is sewn around the perimeter. Next, it’s washed and dried (they recommend using a commercial washer because of the ton of lint that’s generated during laundering) and that makes the cut fringe fluff up.
I kept all the blocks down on the floor until I sewed them together, so as not to get mixed up. As it happened, I had enough solids and prints to alternate them without ever having a solid connected to the side of a solid or a print to the sides of another print.